Water shortages are becoming common place and gardens are not on the water authorities list of priorities in the pecking order.
Gardeners on the other hand who have often spent lifetimes and personal fortunes creating their dream environment disagree. The majority of Gardeners are not wasters by nature so they tend to take um-bridge at the suggestion that their gardens make the water problems worse. I suggest the leaking pipes nationwide (read this article) contribute more to water loss over a 12 month period than watering the garden. However we can all do our part.
You will need an ordinary garden hose attached to your outside tap. One 6 foot length of 25mm copper tube (if you have a soldering kit or can find a screw fit reducer then this can be an advantage too) one jubilee clip and if your really clever an in-line tap to fit in the hose.
Push the hose over the copper tube at one end and fasten with the jubilee clip. If you have an in-line tap then fit this in-line just in front of the copper tube.
This is the fun part. Turn on the water, it does not need too high a pressure. Then place the tube at the bottom of a tree or shrub and ease the flowing water into the soil. As the water comes out it clears a path in front of it allowing you to push the tube right underground. Leave it running for 20 seconds and remove slowly. As the tube is removed the fine particles of soil flow back into the void made by the water.
Perfect! water delivered right to the root system, no evaporation and if you re-connect the capillary chain into the sub-soil it is possible for the roots to then maintain its own watering regime.
I have managed to push a hose 4 metres into the ground just using a hose pipe and running water.
If you are patient, attach the reducer say 1/4 inch to the copper tube, don some protective goggles (splash-back happens)
Now you can water your lawn using this hydro-jet system. It isn't fast but its efficient.
One thing to bear in mind: Sand soils are easier to get the jet into but because of greater soil particles but hydraulic conductivity (drainage) allows the water to pass through and out of reach to plant roots. This may mean you will have to do this once a fortnight or so. A good seasonal application of organic material will help retain moisture and nutrients.
Clay soils are slow to treat because of the small soil particles but bear in mind once treated with this system you might not have to do it for another 6 weeks. Again a good treatment with organic matter at least once a year will help.
Another good tip - If you have a specimen tree and want it preserved then insert your tube using the above method. Set the flow rate to 'drip' and let the water seep slowly into the soil below ground overnight.
This method is great of established individual trees and shrubs or established borders but if you were planting new then insert a coil of perforated pipe with a blocked end around the bottom of the planting hole. Watering is a lot easier afterwards.
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